Jeff Carrel, St Chinian "Comme a Cayenne" 2021, France
For a taste of regional Languedoc-Roussillon here’s an excellent example from Jeff Carrel and his mate Sebastien Calduch. The wine is called "Comme à Cayenne" because the plot where the Grenache and Carignan were planted was so hard that Michel’s mother regularly said it was like "working the ground in Cayenne", a slavery prison in French Guyana. 85% Grenache/15% Carignan deliver notes of black fruits and spices. A concentrated wine but without excessiveness. Intense, elegant, well rounded and with an authentic mix of spices (liquorice) and dark fruits (cherries, blackcurrant).
Super rich and spicey, classic "my taste", classic Jeff.
I was introduced to Jeff by a French winemaker, whose opinion I highly valued, and what a great introduction that turned out to be. In fact, equally as good as the introduction to Clotilde Chauvet made by the same guy! This was my first real visit to Narbonne and Jeff took us to Le Petit Comptoir – a bistro with excellent food and all accompanied by his wines, of course. He also introduced me to the comic series of secret service agent San Antonio. ‘Romans Noirs’, as they say. If I’m asked, which I often am, would I like to have owned my own vineyard, my response is now firmly ‘No’. I would do what Jeff has done (except that I couldn’t) which is to work with different grape growers in different places and indulge his genius over a wide variety of grapes and styles and terroirs. No limits… If the wider Languedoc region of southern France were a country in its own right it would be my favourite wine-growing country. It has successfully managed to combine a growing level of quality regional wines conforming to the structures and confines of Appellation Contrôlée with the freedom to experiment using its vast range of grapes and soils and microclimates to produce ground-breaking new wines freed from those Appellation Contrôlée shackles. The best of both worlds. Jeff Carrel reflects this freedom with his wide range of wines and styles.
Serve with lamb, pigeon or a filet of beef...
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